Sea of Cortez
I am sitting here, at the end of a week spent exploring Baja California, trying to find the words to express the feelings of awe and gratitude inspired in me by this absolutely magical part of the world. Some of you might recognise my name and wonder what I am doing here, as my usual haunts are the Galapagos Islands, which I consider home, and the reefs and rainforests of Central America. The answer is I had time off, and after years spent hearing wondrous tales of giant cacti, playful sea lions and friendly whales spun by my fellow naturalists, I just had to come and see for myself. This trip was everything I ever dreamed of and more – I had unforgettable experiences, and not only that, but I got to share it all with a close friend, a fellow Galapagos naturalist, which made the trip all the more special for me.
Looking back over the days in search of what I enjoyed the most, several images play through my mind. Spectacular sunrises and sunsets over the jagged crests of “La Giganta” mountain range, the crimson sky giving the soft sandy colours of the visible geological strata a warm pink glow.
Walking through dunes of dazzling white sand stretching as far as the eye could see, where we experienced a strange pleasure in messing up the perfect wind-induced ripples with somersaults, running jumps and slides until reaching the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean.
Beachcombing along miles of spectacular beaches of different hues in company of the ship’s Undersea Specialist, Tom, whilst marvelling at the treasures washed up by the waves.
Kayaking along coastlines and through mangrove forests, or snorkelling among playful California sea lions.
Clear, sunny moments spent on deck whenever possible, joining marine mammal specialist Michael in a continual search for creatures I once thought elusive, but not any more – blue whales, sei whales, Bryde’s whales, fin whales, humpbacks and more.
The flexibility given to the trip by Expedition Leader Larry, which allowed us to spend hours watching courtship behaviour among a group of male humpbacks vying for the attention of a female, or to change the whole timing of the day just to spend time amongst hundreds of playfully graceful common dolphins.
Taking hikes up dry river beds named arroyos among fascinating desert plants, including the larger-than-life Cardon cacti, many of which were in bloom after some heavy rains had transformed the scenery: a sight so singular that our ethnobotanist, Sharon, could barely contain her glee.
The wonderful night of our shore barbecue, when gathered around a bonfire under a sky studded with thousands of stars, the sea gently lapping at the beach, naturalist Adrian told us ancient stories from his land and the once powerful Aztecs that ruled there. Yet another unforgettable moment from that night was leaving the light of the fire behind in the company of ornithologist Bryan, to both do some stargazing and owl hooting.
But the memory that has changed me the most was the moment when, sitting in a local boat surrounded by grey whales sky-hopping, lob-tailing, breaking the surface all around us with the loud sound of exhaling air, a grey whale calf came up beside me allowing me to scratch its back, stroke its rostrum, and even kiss its lovely, unforgettable face.
I, like several others on board, still feel tears threaten when remembering that instant of pure joy – thank you all!
I am sitting here, at the end of a week spent exploring Baja California, trying to find the words to express the feelings of awe and gratitude inspired in me by this absolutely magical part of the world. Some of you might recognise my name and wonder what I am doing here, as my usual haunts are the Galapagos Islands, which I consider home, and the reefs and rainforests of Central America. The answer is I had time off, and after years spent hearing wondrous tales of giant cacti, playful sea lions and friendly whales spun by my fellow naturalists, I just had to come and see for myself. This trip was everything I ever dreamed of and more – I had unforgettable experiences, and not only that, but I got to share it all with a close friend, a fellow Galapagos naturalist, which made the trip all the more special for me.
Looking back over the days in search of what I enjoyed the most, several images play through my mind. Spectacular sunrises and sunsets over the jagged crests of “La Giganta” mountain range, the crimson sky giving the soft sandy colours of the visible geological strata a warm pink glow.
Walking through dunes of dazzling white sand stretching as far as the eye could see, where we experienced a strange pleasure in messing up the perfect wind-induced ripples with somersaults, running jumps and slides until reaching the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean.
Beachcombing along miles of spectacular beaches of different hues in company of the ship’s Undersea Specialist, Tom, whilst marvelling at the treasures washed up by the waves.
Kayaking along coastlines and through mangrove forests, or snorkelling among playful California sea lions.
Clear, sunny moments spent on deck whenever possible, joining marine mammal specialist Michael in a continual search for creatures I once thought elusive, but not any more – blue whales, sei whales, Bryde’s whales, fin whales, humpbacks and more.
The flexibility given to the trip by Expedition Leader Larry, which allowed us to spend hours watching courtship behaviour among a group of male humpbacks vying for the attention of a female, or to change the whole timing of the day just to spend time amongst hundreds of playfully graceful common dolphins.
Taking hikes up dry river beds named arroyos among fascinating desert plants, including the larger-than-life Cardon cacti, many of which were in bloom after some heavy rains had transformed the scenery: a sight so singular that our ethnobotanist, Sharon, could barely contain her glee.
The wonderful night of our shore barbecue, when gathered around a bonfire under a sky studded with thousands of stars, the sea gently lapping at the beach, naturalist Adrian told us ancient stories from his land and the once powerful Aztecs that ruled there. Yet another unforgettable moment from that night was leaving the light of the fire behind in the company of ornithologist Bryan, to both do some stargazing and owl hooting.
But the memory that has changed me the most was the moment when, sitting in a local boat surrounded by grey whales sky-hopping, lob-tailing, breaking the surface all around us with the loud sound of exhaling air, a grey whale calf came up beside me allowing me to scratch its back, stroke its rostrum, and even kiss its lovely, unforgettable face.
I, like several others on board, still feel tears threaten when remembering that instant of pure joy – thank you all!
