Isla Magdalena, Baja California Sur
Only a hint of a breeze kissed our cheeks as night met day. The sun, hidden below the horizon, muted its radiance to a pastel pink encircling the sky. As its brilliance intensified, orchestrating the movement of life on land, silhouettes silently winged across the sky. Our vessel, anchored near Boca de Soledad, pirouetted around its anchor chain with the changing tide. On board there was a bustle of activity as Zodiacs prepared to waltz with the movement of the whales. For it is a dance, this observation and search for understanding. The female gray whale’s percussive exhale is echoed by the gentle puff from her tiny calf. We turn in response and fall into step beside their trail of satin footprints. Sinuous bodies rise and fall, appearing and disappearing. In the distance cetacean spies propel themselves skyward and tumble with a silent crash visible to our eyes but unheard by our ears. Our partners move into our arms and we gaze into their eyes. We cheer with exultation. Then they are gone and life is not quite as it was before.
The sky, the sea and the shore seem dissimilar, but in reality little disparity exists. Against its background base wind sculpts each into sharp lines and swirls. High cirrus clouds coalesce into mackerel scales or darkening, threatening mounds. Waves form in rising crests crashing onto shore in series upon series of parallel rows and shimmering black and white patterns extend from mountainous point to mountainous point across the vast crescent of Bahia Santa Maria. Their form is repeated on the shore where shadows outline ripples molded by Zephyrus’s breath and saltating sand. Even the stabilizing presence of succulent green leaves and fibrous roots only temporarily stays the action of the wind. Our own footprints crossing those of coyote or crab will be obliterated within hours but our memories of the seas and shores of Baja California are indelibly etched into our hearts and minds.
