Baranof Island, Kuiu Island, Saginaw Bay, Chatham Strait

The first morning of our trip. Many of us were up early. The 4:19 am sunrise, eastern time zones and excitement of a new place conspired to get us out on the bow, binoculars (and coffee) in hand well before breakfast. Although Chatham Strait was enveloped in fog, when we ducked into Red Bluff Bay we were rewarded with views of beautiful high bluffs and every size of waterfall imaginable.

After breakfast we cruised the shore of Gut Bay, learning about the geology, scanning the shore for wildlife and enjoying the mountain views. We were rewarded for our efforts with sightings of Sitka black-tailed deer, bald eagles, and glimpses of a brown bear cruising the distant rocky hillside. Once back in Chatham Strait (and the fog) we gathered in the lounge for an introduction to Alaska forest ecology from Steve. After Steve’s talk and some drills, we went out on deck again to scan for more wildlife. First we sighted a mother black bear and three cubs, and then a humpback whale. All appeared to be cruising their respective parts of the shoreline for what the sea had to offer.

This afternoon we went ashore at Saginaw Bay. By kayak we had some time to explore on our own – skirting the rocks, watching the Bonaparte’s gulls or just soaking in the scenery as we glided along. By foot we joined one of the naturalists and hiked the coastline and forest. Fossils on the beach told stories of an earlier time while the plants told their own stories. The trails here were limited, but we did not need to go far to appreciate the majesty of the old growth spruce-hemlock forest and its inhabitants. Some of us were fortunate enough to taste thimbleberries. While others of us chose a totally different sensory experience and dared to touch the slimy (but wonderful) banana slug.

Content with our first day, we settled into the lounge for cocktail hour and recap. Pete was answering our questions about whales and we were minutes away from dinner. But when killer whales are sighted, some things can wait, especially food. So, out to the deck we went once again. This time with sunshine glinting off the backs of the four killer whales, and rainbows hanging above them in the mist from their blows. Perhaps the rest of our questions can wait until tomorrow.