Manuel Antonio National Park and Refugio Curu
Dawn was just lighting the sky as we arrived on shore at Manuel Antonio National Park. At this hour the crescent shaped beach was empty; for now this was our “private park.” The special permission we had for visiting before it officially opened was a great benefit, since it is a very popular destination for both Ticos (Costa Ricans) and tourists.
About 100 meters behind that beach was another one that was equally idyllic. We were on a tombolo, a spit of land leading to a rocky outcrop that was once an island. The middle of this spit was covered with trees and shrubs, and as we walked along the path we listened carefully for rustling in the fallen leaves. But this morning the animals were above us; a sharp-eyed guest spotted a wood stork atop a dead tree, and later we found two sloths nestled in tree forks. Other sloths were in trees by the park road – this must be a record! We saw sleeping bats, white-throated capuchin monkeys in the treetops, and agoutis and bright red and blue land crabs down on the forest floor.
We spent the middle of the day cruising north towards Refugio Curu, on the Nicoya Peninsula. We felt like explorers crossing over a stream via a rickety-looking bamboo bridge (see photo). It was actually quite secure, but our feet were barely above water level at this high tide! The big, arching prop roots of the red mangroves created a magical, otherworldly environment.
The forest on this private reserve is dry forest, and since it is now well into the dry season, many trees have dropped their leaves to conserve precious water until the rains return. Some of us took the “Monkey Trail” through the forest, and we found it to be perfectly named. Not only did we see more white-throated capuchin monkeys, but we also came across a large and active group of howler monkeys. We watched them for a long time in silent excitement. It was thrilling to watch their movements and interactions. Some of their vocalizations were soft and quiet, but we also watched and heard howling males. The howls and low barks were so eerie, we tried to imagine what the early explorers must have thought upon hearing them.
Birding on the dirt road was excellent. Among the many species seen were scarlet macaws, parrots, herons, egrets and kingfishers, wrens and hummingbirds. As we returned to the ship, the sun was setting. The last day of our expedition has been long, full and wonderfully satisfying.
Dawn was just lighting the sky as we arrived on shore at Manuel Antonio National Park. At this hour the crescent shaped beach was empty; for now this was our “private park.” The special permission we had for visiting before it officially opened was a great benefit, since it is a very popular destination for both Ticos (Costa Ricans) and tourists.
About 100 meters behind that beach was another one that was equally idyllic. We were on a tombolo, a spit of land leading to a rocky outcrop that was once an island. The middle of this spit was covered with trees and shrubs, and as we walked along the path we listened carefully for rustling in the fallen leaves. But this morning the animals were above us; a sharp-eyed guest spotted a wood stork atop a dead tree, and later we found two sloths nestled in tree forks. Other sloths were in trees by the park road – this must be a record! We saw sleeping bats, white-throated capuchin monkeys in the treetops, and agoutis and bright red and blue land crabs down on the forest floor.
We spent the middle of the day cruising north towards Refugio Curu, on the Nicoya Peninsula. We felt like explorers crossing over a stream via a rickety-looking bamboo bridge (see photo). It was actually quite secure, but our feet were barely above water level at this high tide! The big, arching prop roots of the red mangroves created a magical, otherworldly environment.
The forest on this private reserve is dry forest, and since it is now well into the dry season, many trees have dropped their leaves to conserve precious water until the rains return. Some of us took the “Monkey Trail” through the forest, and we found it to be perfectly named. Not only did we see more white-throated capuchin monkeys, but we also came across a large and active group of howler monkeys. We watched them for a long time in silent excitement. It was thrilling to watch their movements and interactions. Some of their vocalizations were soft and quiet, but we also watched and heard howling males. The howls and low barks were so eerie, we tried to imagine what the early explorers must have thought upon hearing them.
Birding on the dirt road was excellent. Among the many species seen were scarlet macaws, parrots, herons, egrets and kingfishers, wrens and hummingbirds. As we returned to the ship, the sun was setting. The last day of our expedition has been long, full and wonderfully satisfying.
