Magdalena Bay and Hull Canal

Morning dawned beautiful at our anchorage in Magdalena Bay. The still air and glass-like water added to the peacefulness and wonder of our sunrise whale and bird watching. As the day began, the cormorants we watched fly to roost yesterday at sunset flew back over the water in long lines. Brown pelicans practically touched the water with their wing tips as they traveled inches above the flat calm surface. Brants, turning as a group, broke the silence with the sound of their wings. This, on many mornings, would have been plenty. But, here in Magdalena Bay, we were fortunate to be surrounded by whales as well. Many times it was hard to know which way to look as whales surfaced on all sides of the Zodiac at the same time.

Interestingly, we were not the only ones watching the whales. One Zodiac group enjoyed a juvenile double-crested cormorant that was busy diving around a cow/calf gray whale pair. It was so faithful to this pair of whales that we could predict where the whales would come back up based on the bird. And, when the whales got too far ahead, it would fly to catch up. If only we could have had the view that this bird had of underwater activities!

For as much as we have learned about gray whales, we realize that some questions have grown stronger. We know what we think of the whales, but what do they think of us? What motivates them to dive under our boats or lift their eye out of the water to look at us? Are we just a fun, floating obstacle to circle around, or are they asking questions about us as we are about them? And the biggest question of all – why are they “friendly?”

In the 1970’s, less than 100 years after the gray whales were nearly driven to extinction by whaling, (much of it in these same calving lagoons) the whales started approaching boats, seemingly seeking human contact. These massive creatures of the ocean, on occasion, still reach out to us in our boats. On this morning, a juvenile whale graced us with his presence. He did not stay long, but left a lasting impression. Now it is up to us to interpret his greeting and gentleness in our own way.