Today was our last day among the Falkland Islands so, not wanting to waste a minute, we set out early. Our first destination was Saunder’s Island, northwest of West Falkland Island. When we arrived, we were greeted with blue skies and a beautiful broad white sand beach on where turquoise waves gently broke. With the comparatively warm sea breeze, it made for a more tropical setting than we had expected, and certainly more than we had experienced only days earlier below the polar front.
Saunder’s Island is home to a black-browed albatross nesting colony, which is reached by a lovely walk through fields of tussock and grassland. As we strolled leisurely towards the colony, Magellanic penguins poked in and out of their boroughs while keeping a somewhat wary watch on our progress. We found the albatross nests spread out across a long bluff, high above kelp forests and waves that pounded the rocky shore below. Individual downy chicks, nearly the size of their parents, sat on nest-bowls of soil, grass, and roots evenly spaced on the terraced cliffs. Occasionally, a single parent would return with a crop full of food, but otherwise the months-old chicks sat alone. It will be several more months before they are ready to spread their massive wings and ride the ocean winds north to feed on their own.
Eventually, we returned to the beach where we found Commerson’s dolphins surfing among the breaking waves. As we headed back to the ship, they shifted their attention to our Zodiacs and to our excitement they darted playfully through the turquoise waters breaking at our bow.
In the afternoon, we visited Carcass Island and were joined by Peale’s dolphins, which, like the Commerson’s dolphins, played in our wake as we shuttled to shore in our Zodiacs. Carcass Island afforded many opportunities for exploring. Some of us meandered among the intertidal zone searching for colorful invertebrates and shorebirds, while others chose a longer hike up a ridge and were rewarded with sublime views of the island shoreline and the vast southern Atlantic Ocean. Whichever adventure we chose, we all eventually made our way to Rob and Lorraine McGill’s camp. The McGill’s hospitality was wonderful and they treated us to a splendid assortment of cakes. And shortbread, too. And lemon tarts. And truffles. And scones. And… Our good cheer was broken only by lighthearted grumblings about overindulgence and our ever-expanding waistbands. But, of course, such triflings are best left for home so with more treats in hand we will spilled out into the McGill’s garden and laughed as brazen ‘Johnny Rooks’ schemed about ways to relieve us of our afternoon desserts.
Today was far more civilized than any other on this exciting adventure aboard the National Geographic Explorer, yet civilized in a most delightful and magical way that could only be possible so far away from the rest of the world.
