What was aptly labeled as an “expedition day” once again turned out to be one of those incredible journeys into the best Antarctica has to offer. Amazing icy views of the peninsula, inquisitive gentoo penguin chicks, mischievous leopard seals and a radiant Brown (very brown!) Bluff followed by an exquisite selection of tabular bergs made up yet another fantastic day. Sure enough, Antarctica delivers!

For a few early risers, the day started with a view of pretty solid pack ice and giant tabular bergs that prevented us from completing plan “A” by landing at Paulet Island. Plan “B” soon started and we retraced our steps a bit and retreated to the Antarctic Peninsula. Meanwhile the skies were opening and Brown Bluff was looking very welcoming.

Glassy waters and a few bergs meant an easy landing on a pebbly beach. With enough penguins still busying themselves with their big chicks and loads of space to spread around, most of us had the chance to find a quiet spot and enjoy the peaceful rhythm of the gentoo colony. Calm as they did seem to be, the penguins were getting ready to face the coming winter. Many adults, having finished the breeding period for the season, were already going through one last ordeal, molting to their new coat of feathers. Others, a little delayed perhaps, were giving their chicks a few last meals before they were to let them go on their own trip to the ocean for the first time.

The Adelie penguin colony was already empty as, having started their breeding a couple of weeks ahead of the gentoo’s, most had already finished. Only a few, mostly chicks, were left finishing their fledging before they too could go to the ocean.

After a glorious morning, some of us also got a taste for what the penguins endure everyday… a chance to taste the ocean! The jumping platform was set up to the side of National Geographic Explorer and the Polar Plunge (you can’t quite call it a swim…!) was a hit with several people going despite the air temperature being -3º C and the water slightly less cold! Some are still shivering…

In the afternoon we cruised in Antarctic Sound. Skillfully navigated by the captain and officers, we got extremely close to tabular bergs and to the bottom of the sound where sea ice made it impossible for us to continue yet provided fantastic views. With enough natural wonders to satisfy even the most demanding of us, we turned back and started heading north towards Elephant Island where we hope to get a glimpse of this historic place.